In surfer’s life, Australia is a destination which is a part of big inescapable trips. Yes, it is immense, and would be needed months to discover all of the continent.
Yes, it became a destination more expensive than a few years ago, and yes, there is big fishes in the water … But, here we are, Australia that feels well the adventure, the big spaces and the freedom, the points perfect breaks and the relaxed rhythm of life.
For the first one trip, East Cost is easy, one landed in Sydney, we leave Brisbane … 1000 km of coast and quite a lot of mythical waves names of which are registered in the history of the surfing.
There are parrots everywhere, even right in the heart of Sydney. A front taste of the local fauna, even before leaving the city.
In one of the ferries which assure multiple daily connections for Sydney and its neighborhood, a kid, a little wanker, rugby ball in the hand, the long nape of the neck, comes to see us so that we photograph him and strikes proudly the pose. Here, we take the ferry as we take the bus.
We leave Sydney to go back up to the north of New South Wales.. Some stops along big areas of water, birds again and again. The wilderness camping being forbidden from now on in Australia, it is necessary to remain discreet or to pay the camping, often expensively moreover.
Set apart some big cities which punctuate the east cost, the coast, little built, is rather wild. We put down our suitcases to Byron Bay, strategic to shine towards the interesting spots of the region. It is a big tourist village, formerly colonized not hippies in the 70s, hippy that, from now on, are deducted in the rain forest, inside lands, for more tranquillity. The village hippy became “Bohemian-style” and doubtless a little lost of its soul, show of it the very numerous clothing stores and others surfing shops which mark out streets. Nevertheless, the closeness of the sea, the long walk which runs along the bay up to the lighthouse, the restaurants ” healthy “or” organic “, the multiple surfing spots, and the nature still protected, make of Byron Bay a considerable stopover where it is easy to go to the countryside and to spend its days in the water.
Especially as there is one multitudes of surfing spots a few kilometers away from car, in the South as in the North: Brunswick head, Lennox head, Balina, Tea pass, Snapper rocks, Coolangatta, Kirra, to quote only the most known. On the easiest spots, there are a lot of people in the water, a same lot of people. And especially all the generations: children of 5 years to the 70-year-old grandmas … On the more technical spots … he also has of the world! And on the crap spots, in rotten conditions, with a defused sea … there are always one or two guys in the water … In brief The Australian is stronger than you! Besides, the gay man australo surfus is cunning, to surf quieter, he puts this kind of small rewarding panels near certain accesses. The fact remains that, in spite of the world, there are quality waves, vague virgins even, if we look for them, and the Australian are cool in the water, what wastes nothing.
One day when we did one stop to Lennox Head, my friend, a New Zealander, Lou, who lives over there since a few years, decides to get into the water. The spot is rather inhospitable in first access, the launch in the middle of rocks looks a little tightened. Brief as there is a little of size, and that I do not know the spot, I decide to pass.Motivated, my girlfriend throws herself in the water, in the middle of rocks, as she can. Fortunately, seeing her a little in trouble, a fifty-year-old Australian, who was also in the water, told him to follow and takes him to the peak.There, there is current that pulls off the rocky point. She lets herself drift a little, without taking notice. The same Australian, decidedly nice, goes to see her and tells her to stay with the group if not she will serve as a bait for sharks … Swallowing little saliva … The girl comes out of water empty-handed, without taking a single Vague and with a bad feeling … In short, I did well to abstain. We still laugh! In a recent mail, she told me that she surfed much less because of the many recent attacks …
Another time, on the beach of Tea Pass, French, very peace, (very very!) a night surfing in the full moon proposes us:” you know the sharks they smell if you are connected with them, and if you wish well to them, you risk nothing. Yeah yeah, sincere … Well there also I pass! Put other than that, I had some good surfing and set full of great waves.
” The Pass is a long perfect right, and a family spot when it is small. When it is big vague, is so beautiful and endless that the surfers move by far to surf her.
“Mullumbimby, a city hippy in Byron Bay’s backs, one”fake”for tourist, where we sell of the hippy until the sickness. You smile are filmed!”